7 Things About Mt. Kilimanjaro

Recently I accompanied several employees of corporate supporter Elanco as they climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and raised money for Heifer International. The trek was challenging and magnificent. Here are a few things that other sources may not tell you about climbing Kilimanjaro.

1. It’s not the climbing, it’s the altitude. So walk verrry sloooowly.climbing Kilimanjaro w Heifer

When someone asks if Kilimanjaro was hard, I don’t know what to say. Because, while walking up a rocky path for hours each day isn’t easy, the routes were not very difficult and the segments not long – until the summit day. My lungs complained much sooner than my legs did. No, the tough part was re-learning my body’s capabilities at altitude.

Normally, when I hike, I move at a good clip. So I was startled, within the first few minutes of the trek, to be told to follow behind the guide at a pace that I wouldn’t use for window-shopping at the mall. But as the days go on and I heard my breathing deepening, I became comfortable with going slowly. By the day of the summit attempt, I was grateful to climb at a speed that could be surpassed by my 85-year-old grandmother pulling a sledge of iron ore.

Heifer Kilimanjaro climb camp

Marta and Gail bundled up at campsite

2. You’re cold.

Many nights on the mountain, I slept in a sleeping bag with liner, and long underwear, pants, fleeces, a jacket, and ski socks. And a stocking cap. And foot warmers. I lost all memory of what it might mean to be warm. On the morning of the summit, the water in our Camelbak tubes froze during the walk, and my toes went bitingly numb. Cameras often freeze up at the top. Afterward, the skin on my hands and windburned face became dry and tough.

 

3. And dirty.

dirty hands on Kilimanjaro Heifer climb

A typical state of affairs

In this weather, I didn’t mind not bathing for seven days. But I would’ve liked to get the grit out of my teeth. At the end of the dry season, when we climbed, the dust from the trail and campsites creeped into everything. Washing our hands twice a day was a lovely experience – until we grasped the zipper to enter a tent, and they were filthy once again. Applying sunscreen became, at some point, just an exercise in smearing dirt over your face.

4. You have to pee a lot.

To fight altitude sickness, it’s necessary to drink about three liters of water while climbing, in addition to plenty of hot teas and soups at every meal. This means that nearly every hour, like an anxious spaniel, I needed to rush behind a bush or rock to answer nature’s call. I thought a person would only experience this sort of inconvenience in pregnancy, but I was wrong. Continue reading

Elanco Guest Post: A Tanzania Journey

Gail Neuwirth Geisler was a member of the team of Elanco employees who climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro raising money for Heifer International. Here, she shares her impressions from a remarkable visit to Tanzania.

Gail Neuwirth of Elanco on Kilimanjaro

Gail Neuwirth Geisler on Mt. Kilimanjaro

I just returned from two weeks in Tanzania. My Elanco colleagues and I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and raised over $7,000 for Heifer International, getting to know some amazing, hardworking Tanzanian porters and trip leaders in the process. We visited a children’s home in Rotia Valley and took a short safari trip into Ngorongoro Crater. We visited families who were recipients of camels, goats, cattle and chickens through their participation in projects with Heifer. We met with a 30-year veteran of Heifer Tanzania and a large Masai family in the bush. Considering our short time in the country, we saw a lot.

As Americans and Canadians, my colleagues and I are incredibly blessed with all of the resources and opportunities we have. Not because we earned them or deserve them, but simply by virtue of where we were born. It’s very easy for us to take for granted all that we have – it’s all we’ve ever known.

Most of the people we saw in Tanzania experience a much more grueling struggle for the basic necessities of life. Figuring out how to get enough water to drink or enough food to eat and how to transport that water and food is their daily travail. The dry season is long; getting enough rain can mean the difference between survival and starvation. The climate is changing, dry seasons are longer and rains come later. Jobs are scarce, unemployment is staggeringly high. Life is harsh.

Masai women in Tanzania

A visit with a rural Masai family

I left Tanzania with mixed emotions. I was disheartened with the role of women, especially in the Masai culture. I felt very uncomfortable with what I spent on the climb itself – what a selfish use of money! I was surprised to see the steady stream of hikers and the swarms of support they require trekking up the mountain each day, and the debris the least conscientious climbers leave behind. The Ngorongoro Crater was filled with tourists in vehicle after vehicle, tearing through the dust. It seemed like an assault on an already stressed environment.

Yet the very crowds that concern me are putting food on the table for an army of porters and guides. Trekkers enable our climb leaders to send their children to good international schools and possibly to change their future.

Porters on Kilimanjaro Elanco-Heifer trip

Porters with heavy loads on Kilimanjaro

The Heifer participant family we visited was proud of their farm and grateful for the help they had received. It was evident that that although life was still not easy, they could maintain an acceptable level of food security and the kids were all in school. The disabled matriarch of the family beamed when we met and gave us a heartfelt blessing before we left.

The Tanzanian people we met were happy and kind. I always felt safe. The group that I traveled with was amazing. We laughed a lot and bonded over ginger tea and soup. We made it to the summit of Kilimanjaro as a team, and shared tears of joy and amazement at our accomplishment. The entire trip exceeded all my expectations. It truly was a trip of a lifetime and I’m really glad I was able to go. Maybe as I share what I experienced with friends and co-workers, I can help tell the Tanzanian story. I’d like to think that I’ll never look at water or a warm shower quite the same.

Heifer’s Trainings Continue to Serve Nine Years Later

After our descent from Kilimanjaro with the group of Elanco employees who are Heifer International supporters, I had the opportunity to visit the Kitomary family in Tanzania.

The Kitomary family farm is a miraculous oasis of organic farming outside the city of Arusha in Tanzania. It wasn’t always that way, though.

Kitomarys on their farm

Photo courtesy of Heifer International

Zodiac Kitomary used to drink away the meager earnings of his family’s simple plantings. He had nothing better to do, he says, no hopeful prospects. Then in 2003, the family received fish fingerlings from Heifer, and later, dairy goats. More importantly, Zodiac says, they received trainings on how to maximize the output of their tiny property and on how to work together.

Tanzania small farm

Photo courtesy of Heifer International

His wife, Ndetaniawa, says Heifer trainings taught a different attitude, calling for husband and wife to work together and value each other. She confronted her husband and asked him to stop drinking. “Now,” she says, “everything that comes from the farm, everything we make, we share together equally.”

And they manage to squeeze a lot out of the farm. One and a half acres, they observe, is not a lot to raise six children on. They’ve enthusiastically adopted all kinds of organic techniques so that every inch of the farm serves more than one purpose.

Goat on Tanzania farm

Photo courtesy of Heifer International

The fish fingerlings the Kitomarys raise are sold all over the region. They have a biogas system run with the dung of their dairy goats, which they continue to breed. And they’re raising specialty crops like herbs, greens, yams and fruit trees.

With their earnings, the family is sending all six children to good schools. One is even at university now.

“Many people are amazed,” Zodiac Kitomary says. “They think I must still be getting financial assistance. But really I just keep applying the training, and that’s what makes it possible.”

Kilimanjaro: We Made It

We made it up Kilimanjaro. In case you missed my previous post, I was given the opportunity to accompany a group of employees of Elanco, a Heifer International corporate supporter, as they climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and raised money for Heifer. 

It was a long day, for the simple reason that you must minimize your time between 15k and 19k ft, and so the distance up and down must be compressed into one day, while moving only as fast as your cardio system can handle. That’s not very fast. (Baby step. Pause. Gasp. Baby step. Etc.) So, the summit climb started at midnight and ended about an hour after sunrise, at 7:30.

View from near Uhuru Peak

View from near Uhuru Peak: Sunrise over Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro's 2nd major peak

You get very familiar with the boots of the person ahead of you on such a climb. It’s hypnotic by necessity. (I think if we had to do the climb in the light, seeing the endless, impossibly steep switchbacks of loose volcanic scree, we’d never have the nerve to do it.) So you think about your frantically pounding heart, your next foot placement, your fast deep breaths, your frozen feet and your runny nose. These are not deep thoughts.

Kilimanjaro's Uhuru Peak With Setting Moon

Uhuru Peak, with setting moon. After sunrise and the steepest section, we still had to circle an ancient crater to get to Uhuru.

Until you see how high you are above the world. The 7-day climb (5 1/2 up, 1 1/2 down) accustoms you to seeing the tops of different varieties of clouds, as if from an airplane. But it’s even more breathtaking seeing the sun rise over entire mountains that don’t quite reach your shoulders, seeing the very curve of the Earth, spread out before you. And knowing that you got there on your own two feet.

Most of us did use the supplemental oxygen to some extent, and I think that was a good idea. It looked like a few climbers with other groups had to turn back near the top, but that was nothing unexpected or alarming. Time at the top was severely restricted – 15 minutes for pats on backs, getting pictures, looking at landmarks, eating and drinking, and adjusting clothes/sunscreen for the descent.
 
Elanco colleagues preparing to summit Kilimanjaro

Elanco teammates Marta Haley and Gail Neuwirty testing out the oxygen equipment before the summit day.

The descent was rapid. We actually came down to about 12,000 ft today. You can sort of run/ski on your heels straight down the volcanic scree, past the switchbacks you took up. Randy’s son and I were the only two in the group who actually did that. I don’t care if my knees are wrecked tomorrow; it was so much fun it was worth it.

I think the group is still in a bit of shock from the physical exertion of today. One thing that many recent climbers say is “It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done.” Locals also tell hopeful climbers not to be intimated – or listen at all – to recent climbers. I think most of our group would agree that this was the hardest thing they’d ever done, mentally, physically, or both. (I’m still deciding what I think about that.) But I also know that everyone gained a lot from the experience. Some members of the group had never really traveled internationally before, but they jumped in with both feet here.
Kilimanjaro summit Elanco
The Elanco team plus guides at the summit

I do know that when our guide spoke enticingly of the rainforest we’ll pass through tomorrow, one guy, James, said blankly, “I don’t care if a lion emerges and tap-dances in front of me; he’d better not get between me and a shower.” I can sympathize. Right now I can’t quite imagine being warm through-and-through, and I’m absolutely positive my fingernails will never be clean ever again.

Editor’s note: The climbers’ goal of raising $5,895 (one dollar for every meter in Kilimanjaro’s height) is very nearly met. Celebrate their successful climb by helping them raise the final $219. Click here to donate.

Elanco’s Kilimanjaro Climbers Prepare for Ascent

The big day has come. As I mentioned last week, I am accompanying a group of employees of Elanco, a Heifer International corporate supporter, as they climb Mt. Kilimanjaro and raise money for Heifer. I’m likely to be out of Internet access after today, but I’ll be sure to update everyone when we make it back down.

The climbing team has assembled at our hotel outside Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro National Park, and we are excited. We’re also wondering what’s in store for us.

Mt. Kilimanjaro is not a technical climb — no ropes or crampons — which leads many amateurs to attempt it and be forced to turn back. The altitude is the critical element, and it affects each person – young or old, fit or fat – in an unpredictable way. Our group will be climbing the Rongai Route, beginning today (Wednesday) very near the Kenyan border.

Our staging hotel is on the south side of the mountain, nestled, along with several other hotels, into a rural community which, like most places in Tanzania, runs on agriculture. On our free day before the climb, a local man walked us along paths through the hills – and right through the back courtyards of many small homes – to see sights like waterfalls and the local market. The countryside is covered mainly with banana cultivation, along with native trees. And if you’re someone who thinks of Africa as being all hot and humid jungle or savannah, wrap your mind around this: we’re almost on the equator, and temperatures range from the mid-80s in the day to mid-60s at night. Delicious!

This group of Elanco employees is composed mainly of Midwesterners and Canadians. Is it cliche’ to say “salt-of-the-earth?” If so, I don’t care, because that’s what they are: warm, friendly, patient and certainly not afriad of a little exertion. Here’s how they came together for this trip:

Randy Bagg initiated this whole adventure; he works in research and regulation at Elanco, and he has dreamed of climbing Kilimanjaro for years. When he first proposed the trip to his officemate, the fun-loving James McCurdy, the younger man thought he was half-joking. Friends point out that Randy isn’t particularly adventurous or daring, but he shrugs off that observation. “I like new experiences. This is a challenge,” he says. “And I’ve always been intrigued with Africa.”

Another Elanco employee, the irrepressable Marta Haley, says she “invited herself along” and convinced Gail Neuwirth Geisler to make the attempt as well. Marta and Gail work to promote Elanco’s anti-hunger corporate responsibility programs, and fundraising for Heifer meshed neatly with this journey. The group, at last check, had nearly reached their goal of raising $5,895 for Heifer, or one dollar for every meter of Kilimanjaro’s height. (Click here to help us reach the goal.)

These people are passionate about hunger, and about helping Heifer. Some of them have visited Heifer projects more than once, and speak about the projects with nearly as much passion and authority as a Heifer worker. Yesterday afternoon, the group spent an hour after lunch talking about how to make the critical anti-hunger efforts resonate more with their fellow employees.

Later today, the climb begins, and we’ll see how tough we are. But we all know that the real challenge is much bigger and harder to address. How can we, together, lighten the load of people who struggle day after day, year after year, with the oppression of hunger and poverty?

Kilimanjaro Quest Becomes Heifer Fundraiser

Of all the goals I had on my bucket list, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro was at the very top.
Mount Kilimanjaro

Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa

How could I have dreamed I’d get the chance to make the climb as part of the job I love?

Next week, I’ll travel to Tanzania and begin scaling the 19,000-foot peak, documenting the fundraising journey of several special Heifer supporters. I’ll be doing my best to keep up with them, and you can keep up with me via Twitter and Facebook.

Kilimanjaro climbers Brendan and Randy Bagg
Kilimanjaro climbers Brendan and Randy Bagg

The climbers are employees of Elanco Animal Health, one of Heifer’s most loyal corporate backers. Heifer gets strong support from Elanco (funding projects that help thousands of families globally) as well as from its big-hearted individual employees. They must be dedicated, if they’re climbing the tallest peak on the African continent.

Mt. Kilimanjaro was on Randy Bagg’s bucket list, too. He’s a veterinarian and regulatory manager with Elanco in Canada, and seems thrilled to be climbing with his son, Brendan. I’ll tell you more about my fellow climbers in updates from Tanzania.

I fully expect the climb to be extremely difficult. It’s not so much the physical exertion as the altitude: it can turn an extremely fit person into a nauseated, hyperventilating mess, even at rest. Harrowing accounts of other people’s climbs aren’t helping me psychologically.

Kilimanjaro fundraiser supplies

My ever-growing pile of supplies for Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro is a grand and gorgeous mountain. The first documented summit occurred in 1889. Its highest peak, dubbed “Kaiser Wilhelm Peak” by Westerners, was re-named “Uhuru Peak” after the Swahili word for freedom in 1961 when Tanzania gained independence. The top of the mountain features a broad caldera, which was once covered by ice. But in the last 100 years, 80 percent of the ice cover has disappeared from Kilimanjaro.

My packing is underway, and fundraising for Heifer is progressing, too. If all goes well, we’ll be standing at the top of a continent on October 1st.

Around the Web: Climbing, Running, Biking and Learning for Heifer International

Every Sunday we highlight some of the people who are funding our work creatively or helping us spread the word of our mission online. If you spot Heifer International while you’re surfing the web or know of a fun or creative fundraising effort, please share it with us here in the comments.

Photo credit: Clergy Family Confidential

Tim Schenck wrote a great blog post about the children at his church participating in “Animal Crackers,” a program sponsored by Heifer International to teach kids how animals can help eradicate global hunger. The children raised enough money to purchase a cow, goat and pig to help families in need. Learn more about Animal Crackers.

This blogger just exercised his way to buying a goat for a poor farmer in Africa using EarndIt. Not only did he earn points toward a goat, he has seen improvements in his own exercise tracking. A win-win for everyone.

Andy and Kim Holloway are participating in the Nation’s Triathlon today in Washington, D.C., hoping to raise money and awareness for Heifer International. We’re rooting for you guys.

Ian Urban

Photo credit: Wicked Local

 

 

 

Talk about reaching new heights, 13-year-old Ian Urban recently climbed Mount Kilimanjaro and raised money to end hunger and poverty with Heifer International at the same time!