7 Things About Mt. Kilimanjaro

Recently I accompanied several employees of corporate supporter Elanco as they climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and raised money for Heifer International. The trek was challenging and magnificent. Here are a few things that other sources may not tell you about climbing Kilimanjaro.

1. It’s not the climbing, it’s the altitude. So walk verrry sloooowly.climbing Kilimanjaro w Heifer

When someone asks if Kilimanjaro was hard, I don’t know what to say. Because, while walking up a rocky path for hours each day isn’t easy, the routes were not very difficult and the segments not long – until the summit day. My lungs complained much sooner than my legs did. No, the tough part was re-learning my body’s capabilities at altitude.

Normally, when I hike, I move at a good clip. So I was startled, within the first few minutes of the trek, to be told to follow behind the guide at a pace that I wouldn’t use for window-shopping at the mall. But as the days go on and I heard my breathing deepening, I became comfortable with going slowly. By the day of the summit attempt, I was grateful to climb at a speed that could be surpassed by my 85-year-old grandmother pulling a sledge of iron ore.

Heifer Kilimanjaro climb camp

Marta and Gail bundled up at campsite

2. You’re cold.

Many nights on the mountain, I slept in a sleeping bag with liner, and long underwear, pants, fleeces, a jacket, and ski socks. And a stocking cap. And foot warmers. I lost all memory of what it might mean to be warm. On the morning of the summit, the water in our Camelbak tubes froze during the walk, and my toes went bitingly numb. Cameras often freeze up at the top. Afterward, the skin on my hands and windburned face became dry and tough.

 

3. And dirty.

dirty hands on Kilimanjaro Heifer climb

A typical state of affairs

In this weather, I didn’t mind not bathing for seven days. But I would’ve liked to get the grit out of my teeth. At the end of the dry season, when we climbed, the dust from the trail and campsites creeped into everything. Washing our hands twice a day was a lovely experience – until we grasped the zipper to enter a tent, and they were filthy once again. Applying sunscreen became, at some point, just an exercise in smearing dirt over your face.

4. You have to pee a lot.

To fight altitude sickness, it’s necessary to drink about three liters of water while climbing, in addition to plenty of hot teas and soups at every meal. This means that nearly every hour, like an anxious spaniel, I needed to rush behind a bush or rock to answer nature’s call. I thought a person would only experience this sort of inconvenience in pregnancy, but I was wrong. Continue reading

Elanco Guest Post: A Tanzania Journey

Gail Neuwirth Geisler was a member of the team of Elanco employees who climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro raising money for Heifer International. Here, she shares her impressions from a remarkable visit to Tanzania.

Gail Neuwirth of Elanco on Kilimanjaro

Gail Neuwirth Geisler on Mt. Kilimanjaro

I just returned from two weeks in Tanzania. My Elanco colleagues and I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and raised over $7,000 for Heifer International, getting to know some amazing, hardworking Tanzanian porters and trip leaders in the process. We visited a children’s home in Rotia Valley and took a short safari trip into Ngorongoro Crater. We visited families who were recipients of camels, goats, cattle and chickens through their participation in projects with Heifer. We met with a 30-year veteran of Heifer Tanzania and a large Masai family in the bush. Considering our short time in the country, we saw a lot.

As Americans and Canadians, my colleagues and I are incredibly blessed with all of the resources and opportunities we have. Not because we earned them or deserve them, but simply by virtue of where we were born. It’s very easy for us to take for granted all that we have – it’s all we’ve ever known.

Most of the people we saw in Tanzania experience a much more grueling struggle for the basic necessities of life. Figuring out how to get enough water to drink or enough food to eat and how to transport that water and food is their daily travail. The dry season is long; getting enough rain can mean the difference between survival and starvation. The climate is changing, dry seasons are longer and rains come later. Jobs are scarce, unemployment is staggeringly high. Life is harsh.

Masai women in Tanzania

A visit with a rural Masai family

I left Tanzania with mixed emotions. I was disheartened with the role of women, especially in the Masai culture. I felt very uncomfortable with what I spent on the climb itself – what a selfish use of money! I was surprised to see the steady stream of hikers and the swarms of support they require trekking up the mountain each day, and the debris the least conscientious climbers leave behind. The Ngorongoro Crater was filled with tourists in vehicle after vehicle, tearing through the dust. It seemed like an assault on an already stressed environment.

Yet the very crowds that concern me are putting food on the table for an army of porters and guides. Trekkers enable our climb leaders to send their children to good international schools and possibly to change their future.

Porters on Kilimanjaro Elanco-Heifer trip

Porters with heavy loads on Kilimanjaro

The Heifer participant family we visited was proud of their farm and grateful for the help they had received. It was evident that that although life was still not easy, they could maintain an acceptable level of food security and the kids were all in school. The disabled matriarch of the family beamed when we met and gave us a heartfelt blessing before we left.

The Tanzanian people we met were happy and kind. I always felt safe. The group that I traveled with was amazing. We laughed a lot and bonded over ginger tea and soup. We made it to the summit of Kilimanjaro as a team, and shared tears of joy and amazement at our accomplishment. The entire trip exceeded all my expectations. It truly was a trip of a lifetime and I’m really glad I was able to go. Maybe as I share what I experienced with friends and co-workers, I can help tell the Tanzanian story. I’d like to think that I’ll never look at water or a warm shower quite the same.

Heifer’s Trainings Continue to Serve Nine Years Later

After our descent from Kilimanjaro with the group of Elanco employees who are Heifer International supporters, I had the opportunity to visit the Kitomary family in Tanzania.

The Kitomary family farm is a miraculous oasis of organic farming outside the city of Arusha in Tanzania. It wasn’t always that way, though.

Kitomarys on their farm

Photo courtesy of Heifer International

Zodiac Kitomary used to drink away the meager earnings of his family’s simple plantings. He had nothing better to do, he says, no hopeful prospects. Then in 2003, the family received fish fingerlings from Heifer, and later, dairy goats. More importantly, Zodiac says, they received trainings on how to maximize the output of their tiny property and on how to work together.

Tanzania small farm

Photo courtesy of Heifer International

His wife, Ndetaniawa, says Heifer trainings taught a different attitude, calling for husband and wife to work together and value each other. She confronted her husband and asked him to stop drinking. “Now,” she says, “everything that comes from the farm, everything we make, we share together equally.”

And they manage to squeeze a lot out of the farm. One and a half acres, they observe, is not a lot to raise six children on. They’ve enthusiastically adopted all kinds of organic techniques so that every inch of the farm serves more than one purpose.

Goat on Tanzania farm

Photo courtesy of Heifer International

The fish fingerlings the Kitomarys raise are sold all over the region. They have a biogas system run with the dung of their dairy goats, which they continue to breed. And they’re raising specialty crops like herbs, greens, yams and fruit trees.

With their earnings, the family is sending all six children to good schools. One is even at university now.

“Many people are amazed,” Zodiac Kitomary says. “They think I must still be getting financial assistance. But really I just keep applying the training, and that’s what makes it possible.”

Kilimanjaro: We Made It

We made it up Kilimanjaro. In case you missed my previous post, I was given the opportunity to accompany a group of employees of Elanco, a Heifer International corporate supporter, as they climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and raised money for Heifer. 

It was a long day, for the simple reason that you must minimize your time between 15k and 19k ft, and so the distance up and down must be compressed into one day, while moving only as fast as your cardio system can handle. That’s not very fast. (Baby step. Pause. Gasp. Baby step. Etc.) So, the summit climb started at midnight and ended about an hour after sunrise, at 7:30.

View from near Uhuru Peak

View from near Uhuru Peak: Sunrise over Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro's 2nd major peak

You get very familiar with the boots of the person ahead of you on such a climb. It’s hypnotic by necessity. (I think if we had to do the climb in the light, seeing the endless, impossibly steep switchbacks of loose volcanic scree, we’d never have the nerve to do it.) So you think about your frantically pounding heart, your next foot placement, your fast deep breaths, your frozen feet and your runny nose. These are not deep thoughts.

Kilimanjaro's Uhuru Peak With Setting Moon

Uhuru Peak, with setting moon. After sunrise and the steepest section, we still had to circle an ancient crater to get to Uhuru.

Until you see how high you are above the world. The 7-day climb (5 1/2 up, 1 1/2 down) accustoms you to seeing the tops of different varieties of clouds, as if from an airplane. But it’s even more breathtaking seeing the sun rise over entire mountains that don’t quite reach your shoulders, seeing the very curve of the Earth, spread out before you. And knowing that you got there on your own two feet.

Most of us did use the supplemental oxygen to some extent, and I think that was a good idea. It looked like a few climbers with other groups had to turn back near the top, but that was nothing unexpected or alarming. Time at the top was severely restricted – 15 minutes for pats on backs, getting pictures, looking at landmarks, eating and drinking, and adjusting clothes/sunscreen for the descent.
 
Elanco colleagues preparing to summit Kilimanjaro

Elanco teammates Marta Haley and Gail Neuwirty testing out the oxygen equipment before the summit day.

The descent was rapid. We actually came down to about 12,000 ft today. You can sort of run/ski on your heels straight down the volcanic scree, past the switchbacks you took up. Randy’s son and I were the only two in the group who actually did that. I don’t care if my knees are wrecked tomorrow; it was so much fun it was worth it.

I think the group is still in a bit of shock from the physical exertion of today. One thing that many recent climbers say is “It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done.” Locals also tell hopeful climbers not to be intimated – or listen at all – to recent climbers. I think most of our group would agree that this was the hardest thing they’d ever done, mentally, physically, or both. (I’m still deciding what I think about that.) But I also know that everyone gained a lot from the experience. Some members of the group had never really traveled internationally before, but they jumped in with both feet here.
Kilimanjaro summit Elanco
The Elanco team plus guides at the summit

I do know that when our guide spoke enticingly of the rainforest we’ll pass through tomorrow, one guy, James, said blankly, “I don’t care if a lion emerges and tap-dances in front of me; he’d better not get between me and a shower.” I can sympathize. Right now I can’t quite imagine being warm through-and-through, and I’m absolutely positive my fingernails will never be clean ever again.

Editor’s note: The climbers’ goal of raising $5,895 (one dollar for every meter in Kilimanjaro’s height) is very nearly met. Celebrate their successful climb by helping them raise the final $219. Click here to donate.

Elanco’s Kilimanjaro Climbers Prepare for Ascent

The big day has come. As I mentioned last week, I am accompanying a group of employees of Elanco, a Heifer International corporate supporter, as they climb Mt. Kilimanjaro and raise money for Heifer. I’m likely to be out of Internet access after today, but I’ll be sure to update everyone when we make it back down.

The climbing team has assembled at our hotel outside Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro National Park, and we are excited. We’re also wondering what’s in store for us.

Mt. Kilimanjaro is not a technical climb — no ropes or crampons — which leads many amateurs to attempt it and be forced to turn back. The altitude is the critical element, and it affects each person – young or old, fit or fat – in an unpredictable way. Our group will be climbing the Rongai Route, beginning today (Wednesday) very near the Kenyan border.

Our staging hotel is on the south side of the mountain, nestled, along with several other hotels, into a rural community which, like most places in Tanzania, runs on agriculture. On our free day before the climb, a local man walked us along paths through the hills – and right through the back courtyards of many small homes – to see sights like waterfalls and the local market. The countryside is covered mainly with banana cultivation, along with native trees. And if you’re someone who thinks of Africa as being all hot and humid jungle or savannah, wrap your mind around this: we’re almost on the equator, and temperatures range from the mid-80s in the day to mid-60s at night. Delicious!

This group of Elanco employees is composed mainly of Midwesterners and Canadians. Is it cliche’ to say “salt-of-the-earth?” If so, I don’t care, because that’s what they are: warm, friendly, patient and certainly not afriad of a little exertion. Here’s how they came together for this trip:

Randy Bagg initiated this whole adventure; he works in research and regulation at Elanco, and he has dreamed of climbing Kilimanjaro for years. When he first proposed the trip to his officemate, the fun-loving James McCurdy, the younger man thought he was half-joking. Friends point out that Randy isn’t particularly adventurous or daring, but he shrugs off that observation. “I like new experiences. This is a challenge,” he says. “And I’ve always been intrigued with Africa.”

Another Elanco employee, the irrepressable Marta Haley, says she “invited herself along” and convinced Gail Neuwirth Geisler to make the attempt as well. Marta and Gail work to promote Elanco’s anti-hunger corporate responsibility programs, and fundraising for Heifer meshed neatly with this journey. The group, at last check, had nearly reached their goal of raising $5,895 for Heifer, or one dollar for every meter of Kilimanjaro’s height. (Click here to help us reach the goal.)

These people are passionate about hunger, and about helping Heifer. Some of them have visited Heifer projects more than once, and speak about the projects with nearly as much passion and authority as a Heifer worker. Yesterday afternoon, the group spent an hour after lunch talking about how to make the critical anti-hunger efforts resonate more with their fellow employees.

Later today, the climb begins, and we’ll see how tough we are. But we all know that the real challenge is much bigger and harder to address. How can we, together, lighten the load of people who struggle day after day, year after year, with the oppression of hunger and poverty?

Kilimanjaro Quest Becomes Heifer Fundraiser

Of all the goals I had on my bucket list, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro was at the very top.
Mount Kilimanjaro

Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa

How could I have dreamed I’d get the chance to make the climb as part of the job I love?

Next week, I’ll travel to Tanzania and begin scaling the 19,000-foot peak, documenting the fundraising journey of several special Heifer supporters. I’ll be doing my best to keep up with them, and you can keep up with me via Twitter and Facebook.

Kilimanjaro climbers Brendan and Randy Bagg
Kilimanjaro climbers Brendan and Randy Bagg

The climbers are employees of Elanco Animal Health, one of Heifer’s most loyal corporate backers. Heifer gets strong support from Elanco (funding projects that help thousands of families globally) as well as from its big-hearted individual employees. They must be dedicated, if they’re climbing the tallest peak on the African continent.

Mt. Kilimanjaro was on Randy Bagg’s bucket list, too. He’s a veterinarian and regulatory manager with Elanco in Canada, and seems thrilled to be climbing with his son, Brendan. I’ll tell you more about my fellow climbers in updates from Tanzania.

I fully expect the climb to be extremely difficult. It’s not so much the physical exertion as the altitude: it can turn an extremely fit person into a nauseated, hyperventilating mess, even at rest. Harrowing accounts of other people’s climbs aren’t helping me psychologically.

Kilimanjaro fundraiser supplies

My ever-growing pile of supplies for Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro is a grand and gorgeous mountain. The first documented summit occurred in 1889. Its highest peak, dubbed “Kaiser Wilhelm Peak” by Westerners, was re-named “Uhuru Peak” after the Swahili word for freedom in 1961 when Tanzania gained independence. The top of the mountain features a broad caldera, which was once covered by ice. But in the last 100 years, 80 percent of the ice cover has disappeared from Kilimanjaro.

My packing is underway, and fundraising for Heifer is progressing, too. If all goes well, we’ll be standing at the top of a continent on October 1st.

How Partnering Together Can End Hunger

By Gail Neuwirth of Elanco

I’ve been in China for seven days.  I came here to celebrate our Heifer China project, and to actually see it for myself – and I had high expectations for both.  Traveling halfway around the world, participating in an event at the Great Hall of the People with the presidents of Elanco and the Lilly Foundation, and visiting our community in rural China is all pretty heady stuff.  My trip exceeded all my expectations, but more than that, it made me really really understand our cause and our commitment.  And it touched me deeply.

Listening to Jeff Simmons speak about the Three Rights (the human right for food, the consumer right for choice, and the environmental right for sustainability) in a room full of eager young Chinese faces at an Ag school makes the statistics about growth, hunger, and the looming food security challenges much more real and urgent.  These are the leaders who must work together with us to close the food gap.

Talking candidly with Chinese friends about where we come from on a personal level helped me understand the obstacles and prejudices we have to overcome and how easy that is when we get to know each other. My Elanco colleague talked about being taught to fear and look down on westerners while growing up.  My Heifer International colleague talked about growing up in southern China with no shoes.  I talked about the loss of manufacturing jobs in my hometown of Flint, Michigan and how low-cost labor in Asia impacts families in the U.S.  Sharing those stories helped me see that we’re all members of one global community, trying to care for our families and striving for a better life.

Watching a confident woman describe the transformation in her Heifer project village in front of photos and bar charts gave me hope.  Photos that showed dirt roads and isolation at times when they were unable to cross the river in 2008 and photos of paved roads and a brand new bridge today.  Charts showing that In 2008 the whole village sold only 50 beef cattle, cattle from inferior stock, poorly fed and cared for. In 2012, they sold 5 times as many healthy cattle and family incomes soared.  Pictures of barren landscape then and lush green vistas now because they built cattle barns to house their cattle and protect the environment.  The 3 year business plan for a new community cooperative that will ensure access to markets for the things they grow.  Now when I explain that Heifer and Elanco enable families to lift themselves out of poverty, I get it.

Listening to the Heifer Asia Director coach members of the cooperative made me see that I’m not thinking big enough when I set my goals.  He challenged them to make an additional business plan, one focused solely on social responsibility.  He suggested for example, they commit to collecting all the plastic bottles strewn throughout their community and sell them for a small profit.  And that they think big by educating the entire county about caring for the environment and then collect all the plastic bottles in the county for recycling.  And then think bigger again by sharing that vision and process with counties throughout China.

It’s simple.  There are hungry people that need to be fed.  We all need to work together to make it happen.  It can be done.  We need to act now and think big.  Simple.  Profound.

Creating Ripples of Change to End Hunger

Written by Gail Newirth of Elanco

Toss a pebble in a still pond and watch the ripples spread. We spent Thursday visiting the Elanco /Lilly Foundation funded project in Weichang County, then shared a special dinner with our project partners and local officials.  As I tried to process the events of the day, I imagined the widening ripples on a pond. Heifer International is tossing pebbles in ponds all over the world and when Elanco and the Lilly Foundation partner with Heifer, we get to toss in a few more along with them.

Heifer partners with local NGOs and project participants in struggling communities to provide broad based training and the gift of animals and agricultural support. And there is always one requirement, that each recipient of an animal commits to “passing on the gift” by giving the first healthy offspring to another struggling family.  That cycle is repeated many times.  Communities are transformed as participants move from being recipients to donors, gaining the dignity and pride that comes from being able to help someone else.  Ripples on a pond.

That night as I listened to heartfelt toasts from new friends around our table, i learned about more gifts that are being passed on. The NGO that works on the project in our community has also been changed.  They see first hand the results of this holistic development model and implement it in their own organization and in non-Heifer projects.  Local government officials are moved by the dedication and hard work of the community and the NGO partner, and they redouble their efforts to support the area and ensure its continued success.  The local and regional Heifer staff sees the changes and are even more committed to the work that they do every day.  More ripples.

Thursday employees representing  Elanco China, Lilly China, the Lilly Foundation and Greenfield based Elanco employees played a small part in a life changing event for families in our China project.  We were given the extraordinary opportunity to personally hand beef heifers to 6 of our project families – animals that can transform their lives and sustainably lift them out of poverty.  We spent time with individual families in their homes and heard about their struggles and their dreams.  We learned firsthand a little more about the impact of that pebble we tossed into the pond.

We’ll go back home changed by our experiences here.  Our charge is to pass on a small part of the gift we received as we witnessed the work that is being done.  More ripples.

Elanco Announces Partnership with Heifer to Increase Food Security in China

Elanco and Heifer International believe healthy people and animals promote a healthy, hopeful future. For 55 years, Elanco has developed products that improve animal health and protein production in more than 75 countries. For 65 years, Heifer has given gifts of livestock and training to end hunger. Together, we will end poverty through healthy people and animals.

At today’s National Development Conference on Chinese Social Works at the Great Hall of the People, Elanco announced several key initiatives to increase food security and farm income, including a partnership with Heifer. 

Through this partnership, Elanco announced a global commitment to end hunger for 100,000 families, or about 600,000 people starting in Weichang county of the Hebei province.  More than 1,000 families will receive a beef heifer, along with training to improve cattle shelters and care during the harsh winters. Weichang county is one of the poorest in the province, where more than 20 million people live on less than US $1/day. The project will focus on increasing income, diversifying diets and improving nutrition and health.

Heifer’s sustainable model is built on recipients Passing of the Gift of their animal’s first female offspring to other community members. “A single animal can make a significant difference in the lives of a family,” said Bob Bloom, Chief Financial Officer, Heifer International.

Stay tuned this week to see what other exciting events are happening with Heifer China, Elanco and Heifer.

About Elanco

Helping shape the landscape since 1954, Elanco – a division of Eli Lilly and Company – is a global research-based company that develops and markets products to improve the health and production of animals in more than 100 countries. By offering “Products that work, supported by people who care”, Elanco enhances animal health, wellness, welfare and performance to help provide an abundant supply of safe, affordable food for the world’s people.